Pesto in France is elevated with an explosion of umami

In the culinary realm, where creativity and innovation often reign supreme, the cooks of Provence have crafted their very own exquisite rendition of pesto, aiming to rival, if not surpass, their esteemed Italian neighbors.

This tantalizing creation, known as pistou, first crossed our gastronomic path in the vibrant city of Marseille, where it found its place as a remarkable no-cook sauce, as it gracefully entwined basil and garlic, infusing a symphony of flavors into a hearty and soul-warming bean soup.

However, we soon discovered that this magnificent creation is not limited to the realm of soups, for the resourceful cooks of Provence have skillfully expanded its domain, embracing the audacious notion of mingling this fragrant delight with the elegant simplicity of pasta.

Thus, pistou shines as a versatile condiment, beckoning any enthusiast of Mediterranean cuisine to dip their fork into the culinary delight that is Provencal cooking.

In this pappardelle recipe from our book “Tuesday Nights Mediterranean,” which showcases a collection of weeknight-friendly meals from the region, we draw inspiration from Richard Olney’s timeless masterpiece “Lulu’s Provençal Table.”

This delectable dish boasts a sauce that effortlessly comes together in a food processor, exuding the vibrant and robust flavors reminiscent of Southern France.

Infused with the piquant essence of basil and an abundance of garlic, the sauce also incorporates the indulgent addition of anchovies, elevating its umami quotient to new heights.

To add a touch of complexity and a delightful textural contrast to the perfectly cooked al dente noodles, we garnish the sauced pasta with toasted chili-spiked breadcrumbs.

Our preference lies with panko, renowned for its airy and crispy texture, which imparts a subtle spiciness that tantalizes the taste buds.

This harmonious combination of flavors and textures creates a truly satisfying and memorable culinary experience, showcasing the best of Mediterranean cuisine.

Pappardelle, a culinary delight, is a wide and flat noodle that resembles a delicate ribbon. This pasta variety is often crafted using eggs, which lends it a rich and velvety texture.

One of the distinctive features of pappardelle is its unique shape, as it is traditionally formed into nests before being dried. However, in the unfortunate event that pappardelle is not readily accessible, fear not, for there are suitable alternatives that can be used as substitutes.

Tagliatelle, a close cousin to pappardelle, is an excellent choice that closely mimics the texture and appearance of the original. Its long and flat shape makes it an ideal replacement, ensuring that the dish remains authentic and satisfying.

Coming in a close second is fettuccine, another wide and flat noodle that can seamlessly take the place of pappardelle in a pinch.

While it may not be an exact replica, fettuccine possesses similar qualities that can still contribute to a delectable culinary experience.

It is imperative to remember the crucial step of reserving a portion of the cooking liquid before draining the pasta.

This seemingly insignificant action can greatly enhance the overall taste and texture of the dish. By adding a small quantity of the starchy water to the anchovy-basil puree while gently tossing it with the pappardelle noodles, a luscious and velvety sauce is formed.

This sauce effortlessly envelops the pasta, resulting in a truly delightful culinary experience. The inclusion of the cooking liquid not only contributes to the smoothness of the sauce but also ensures that the flavors of the anchovy and basil are evenly distributed throughout the dish.

Consequently, this simple yet crucial step elevates the dish from being merely satisfactory to being truly exceptional.

Pappardelle with Basil, Anchovy and Toasted Breadcrumbs

Start to finish: 35 minutes

In this recipe, we will be using a total of ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil, which will be divided throughout the cooking process.

To start, we will need ½ cup of panko breadcrumbs, which will add a delightful crunch to our dish. Additionally, we will incorporate 1 teaspoon of red pepper flakes, providing a touch of heat and spice to balance the flavors.

To enhance the taste, we will season with kosher salt and ground black pepper, ensuring a well-balanced and savory dish. Finally, we will need 12 ounces of dried pappardelle pasta, which will serve as the base for this delectable creation.

By following this recipe, you will be able to prepare a mouthwatering dish that combines the richness of olive oil, the crunchiness of breadcrumbs, and the boldness of red pepper flakes, all brought together by the silky texture of pappardelle pasta.

In the realm of culinary delights, one cannot underestimate the sheer elegance and aromatic allure that a seemingly simple combination of ingredients can bring forth.

Behold, the 2-ounce tin of oil-packed anchovy fillets, their rich and piquant essence preserved within, waiting to be harnessed and woven into a tapestry of flavors.

With a meticulous flourish, these 12 delicate fillets, carefully drained of their excess oil, stand as a testament to their role as culinary maestros.

Alongside this gastronomic symphony, we encounter the medium garlic cloves, whose firm exteriors conceal a potent and distinctive profile.

Their peels, effortlessly shed through a humble act of smashing and peeling, allow their inherent essence to unfurl and harmonize with the other players on this gustatory stage.

And finally, our journey leads us to the verdant world of fresh basil, where every leaf holds within it the essence of nature’s embrace.

Imbued with light and vitality, these two cups of basil, gently packed, bring with them a sense of vibrant freshness and provide a much-needed balance to the robust flavors of the anchovy and garlic.

It is here, in this harmonious combination, that we find both a testament to the beauty of simplicity and an invitation to embark upon a gustatory adventure of unparalleled proportions.

In the realm of culinary expeditions, where the marriage of flavors and the pursuit of gastronomic excellence takes center stage, one cannot underestimate the significance of meticulous preparation.

Embarking upon a culinary endeavor, one must equip oneself with the requisite knowledge and techniques, ensuring that each component of the dish harmoniously combines to yield a symphony of flavors on the palate.

With orchestral precision, a 10-inch skillet, infused with 2 tablespoons of oil, finds itself atop a medium heat, patiently awaiting the arrival of the shimmering spectacle that is to come.

As the oil reaches its shimmering point, a symphony of sizzling perfection ensues as the panko, pepper flakes, and a smidgen of salt are introduced to this harmonious arrangement.

Stirring the concoction at regular intervals, the medley transforms into a resplendent golden brown, a testament to the masterful control exerted over the skillet’s unforgiving heat for a span of roughly three minutes.

To absorb any lingering excesses, a paper towel-laden plate becomes the final destination for this golden brown orchestra, as the culinary journey continues.

In another domain of culinary prowess, the pursuit of pasta perfection, a large pot of epic proportions takes the stage.

With a melodious chorus of boiling water reverberating through the pot’s depths, a symphony of flavors unfolds as four quarts of water are united.

To embrace the pasta’s full potential, this aqueous landscape is seasoned with a tablespoon of salt, ensuring that the pasta’s journey to al dente excellence is paved with flavorful intentions.

Stirring occasionally, the pasta embarks upon a transformational odyssey, absorbing the harmonious marriage of water and salt, gradually enveloping the fibers of each noodle.

Alas, as the pasta attains its al dente state, the moment to immortalize the culmination of its culinary journey has arrived.

Utilizing culinary foresight, a momentary pause is necessitated, as a quarter cup of the pasta’s cooking water is reserved, its potential already evident in the mind’s eye.

Bid adieu to the boiling abyss, for the pasta gracefully makes its exit, returning once more to the grandeur of the pot.

In the midst of all this, it is important to note that in a food processor, the anchovies, garlic, and a pinch of salt and black pepper should be processed together until they form a chunky paste.

This process should take approximately 5 seconds. It is crucial to scrape the bowl to ensure that all the ingredients are incorporated properly.

Following this, the basil should be added to the mixture and pulsed until it is finely chopped. This should take around 8 to 10 pulses.

Once again, it is important to scrape the bowl to ensure that all the ingredients are evenly distributed. Moving forward, while the machine is running, it is necessary to drizzle in half a cup of oil and continue processing until the mixture is well combined. This should take approximately 8 to 10 seconds.

Now, it is time to add the anchovy-basil puree to the pasta and toss them together to ensure that they are well combined.

During this process, it may be necessary to add some of the reserved pasta water to ensure that the sauce coats the noodles evenly.

The amount of pasta water required will vary depending on personal preference and desired consistency. Finally, it is time to serve the dish, sprinkling it with the toasted breadcrumbs for an added touch of flavor and texture. This dish is sure to impress with its bold flavors and unique combination of ingredients.