Located in the heart of Uganda’s capital, Kampala, is the bustling Owino Market, where a sea of people navigate through the crowded footpaths in search of secondhand clothing.
Amidst the chaos, individuals meticulously sift through piles of underwear, hoping to find pairs that appear new, while others brave the push and pull to try on shoes.
This vibrant marketplace has long served as a haven for both the affluent and the less fortunate, who flock here in search of affordable yet well-crafted used garments, reinforcing the perception that Western fashion surpasses locally made clothing.
These discarded clothes, once owned by Europeans and Americans, are procured by wholesalers and subsequently shipped to African countries through intermediaries.
This thriving trade has become a multimillion-dollar industry, with a staggering two-thirds of individuals in seven East African nations having acquired at least a portion of their wardrobe from the secondhand clothing market, as revealed by a comprehensive 2017 study conducted by the U.S. Agency for International Development.
Despite the widespread popularity of secondhand clothes, this industry is currently facing increasing pushback from certain quarters.
One notable example of this is the recent decision by Ugandan President Yoweri Museveni to ban the importation of used clothing into his country.
As a semi-authoritarian leader who has held power since 1986, Museveni has been known for his controversial policies and statements. In this case, he cited concerns about the origins of these items, claiming that they are often sourced from deceased individuals.
This move has sparked debate among experts, with some arguing that it could have negative consequences for the local economy and the environment.
Others, however, have praised the decision as a step towards greater self-sufficiency and sustainability. Regardless of one’s opinion on the matter, it is clear that the issue of secondhand clothing is a complex and multifaceted one, with far-reaching implications for both individuals and societies as a whole.
Ugandan President Museveni recently made a statement regarding the practice of sending clothes from white people who have passed away to Africa.
While trade authorities have yet to enforce the president’s order, it is necessary for it to be supported by a legal measure, such as an executive order.
This issue is not unique to Uganda, as other African governments are also attempting to halt these shipments, arguing that it constitutes dumping and undermines the growth of local textile industries.
In fact, the East African Community trade bloc, which includes countries such as Burundi, Congo, Kenya, Rwanda, South Sudan, Tanzania, and Uganda, has recommended a ban on importing used apparel since 2016.
However, due to pressure from Washington, member states have not implemented this ban at the same pace. The president’s order has caused great concern among traders in Uganda, who fear that if the ban is implemented, it could have disastrous consequences for their businesses.
These traders sell used clothes in numerous large open-air markets throughout the country, as well as at roadside stands and even in shops in malls where the secondhand clothes are marketed as new.
The Green Shops in Uganda offer a unique shopping experience for those who are looking for affordable and sustainable clothing options.
The clothes sold at these shops are not only cheap, but they also drop in price further as traders make room for new shipments. It is not uncommon to find a pair of denim jeans for as low as 20 cents or a cashmere scarf for even less.
Glen Kalungi, an apparel reseller, frequents these shops to purchase vintage pants for men and cottony tops for women, which he then sells at a profit.
He is particularly fond of visiting on clearance days when the prices are even lower. The chain, which is owned by Europeans, introduces new clothing every two weeks at its three stores.
Some of the items are sourced from suppliers in countries such as China and Germany, according to retail manager Allan Zavuga.
Overall, the Green Shops offer an affordable and sustainable option for those looking to update their wardrobe without breaking the bank.
According to Zavuga, the suppliers of the clothes that are recycled by The Green Shops remain unknown. However, he assures that all clothes go through a thorough verification process, including fumigation, before being shipped to Uganda.
The organization also receives all necessary documentation to ensure the quality and safety of the recycled clothes.
The Green Shops’ focus on recycling used clothes in bulk makes them an environmentally friendly option. Despite this, the association of traders in Kampala, KACITA, opposes a complete ban on used apparel. Instead, they suggest a phased embargo that allows local clothing producers to improve their capacity to meet demand.
Ugandan apparel makers, such as Winfred Arinaitwe, admit that the quality of locally made fabric is often poor. As a result, many people prefer to purchase used clothing, which is known to last longer and be more visibly appealing.
The notion of a ban on used clothes in Owino Market is met with disbelief by many individuals, even those who question the seriousness of the president’s threat.
Abdulrashid Ssuuna, who endeavors to convince customers in the market to visit his brother’s used clothing business, expresses concern that such a ban would deprive him of his livelihood.
He perceives this potential ban as an attempt to drive them out of the country, as their sustenance is derived from the sale of these old clothes.
Ssuuna emphasizes that if they are forced to abandon this business, they would be compelled to enter the realm of new clothes, which they simply cannot afford.
In his efforts to support his brother’s clothing business, Ssuuna approaches people in Owino Market, where competition is fierce, and merchants vie for attention by sitting amidst piles of clothes and vociferously welcoming potential customers.
Ssuuna explains that by assisting his brother in selling clothing, he is able to earn a living, a necessity he has come to rely on after dropping out of high school in 2020.
In the bustling world of commerce, the market is perpetually teeming with shoppers, their desires and preferences ever-evolving.
However, the nature of business is inherently capricious, rendering it imperative for traders to possess an uncanny ability to anticipate and cater to the needs and wants of their customers before they succumb to the allure of rival sellers.
As Tadeo Walusimbi, a seasoned used-clothes trader with six years of experience, aptly points out, some days prove to be more prosperous than others.
In light of this, he vehemently asserts that a government-imposed ban on his trade would be utterly untenable, not only for himself but for countless others as well.
The ramifications of such a prohibition, he asserts, would be far-reaching and detrimental, impeding the livelihoods and economic well-being of a significant portion of the population.
Thus, it becomes evident that a blanket ban on the used-clothes trade is an ill-advised course of action that fails to take into account the complex dynamics of the market and the livelihoods it sustains.