Farming agave for spirits in California offers potential solution to drought and groundwater limits

Located in Murrieta, California, Leo Ortega embarked on a venture to cultivate spiky blue agave plants in the arid hillsides surrounding his residence, primarily because his wife found them visually appealing.

Fast forward ten years, and his property is now adorned with countless agave plants, representing a burgeoning crop that holds promise for the state of California.

This development comes in the wake of years of severe drought and a concerted effort to reduce groundwater extraction.

Leo, a mechanical engineer at 49 years of age, is just one of many Californians who have embraced the cultivation of agave, envisioning its potential as a valuable resource for producing spirits, reminiscent of the traditional methods employed in Mexico to create tequila and mezcal.

This emerging trend is driven by the necessity to identify resilient crops that require minimal water, coupled with a surging demand for high-quality alcoholic beverages, particularly in light of the COVID-19 pandemic.

The current environmental challenges facing the agricultural industry have prompted entrepreneurs and farmers to explore alternative crops and irrigation methods that are more water-efficient.

Among these options, agave has emerged as a promising choice due to its unique ability to thrive on almost no water.

This has attracted the attention of individuals such as Ortega, who are looking to adapt to the looming limits on groundwater pumping and the anticipated effects of climate change.

With the prospect of extreme weather patterns, farmers are seeking to mitigate the risks of fallowing their fields by transitioning to crops that require less water.

The shift towards agave cultivation is a clear indication of the industry’s willingness to adapt and innovate in the face of these challenges, and it is likely that other alternative crops will continue to emerge as viable options in the years to come.

Ortega, while strolling past meticulously aligned rows of succulents, made an intriguing observation that challenged conventional wisdom.

He remarked, with a hint of curiosity in his voice, that the plants seemed to exhibit a rather unexpected response to their watering routine.

Contrary to what one might assume, the succulents appeared to thrive and flourish more vigorously when deprived of regular watering.

This revelation, although seemingly counterintuitive, raised a multitude of questions and prompted a deeper investigation into the intricate mechanisms governing plant growth.

The implications of Ortega’s observation could potentially revolutionize our understanding of horticulture and prompt a reevaluation of established practices.

It is with great pleasure that we announce the latest investment venture of Mr. X, who is now venturing into the distillery business.

This decision comes after the resounding success of his initial batches of spirits, which were made from the finest Agave americana and sold for a remarkable $160 per bottle.

Such a feat is a testament to Mr. X’s unwavering dedication to quality and his innate ability to identify and capitalize on burgeoning markets.

With his extensive knowledge and experience in the industry, we are confident that Mr. X will continue to produce exceptional products that will not only satisfy the discerning palates of his customers but also set new benchmarks in the spirits industry.

We wish him all the best in his new endeavor and look forward to seeing his continued success.

According to Erlinda A. Doherty, a renowned agave spirits expert and consultant, the pandemic shutdowns have had a significant impact on consumer spending habits.

As people found themselves confined to their homes, they began to seek out higher quality spirits to enjoy in the comfort of their own living spaces.

This shift in consumer behavior has led to a surge in the demand for premium beverage products, as individuals look for ways to elevate their at-home drinking experiences.

This trend has been particularly evident in the spirits industry, with high-quality options such as agave spirits experiencing a notable uptick in sales.

As the pandemic continues to shape our daily lives, it will be interesting to see how these changes in consumer behavior continue to evolve and impact the beverage industry as a whole.

The trend of planting agave in California to be harvested and used to make spirits is gaining momentum, and it’s not hard to see why.

With years of punishing drought and a push to scale back on groundwater pumping, Californians are looking for hardy crops that don’t require much water.

Agave is an ideal candidate, and its popularity is only increasing due to a booming appetite for premium alcoholic beverages since the COVID-19 pandemic.

However, it’s worth noting that tequila and mezcal are proprietary spirits under Mexican laws, which are recognized in U.S. trade agreements.

This means that anything called tequila must contain at least 51% blue Weber agave and be distilled in Jalisco or a handful of other Mexican states.

Mezcal, on the other hand, can be made from a variety of agave types but must be produced in certain Mexican states.

Despite this, agave growers and distillers in California, as well as some in Texas and Arizona, are betting that there is an appetite for more agave-based spirits even if they are produced outside of Mexico and not called tequila or mezcal.

As Leo Ortega and other growers have discovered, agave is a promising new crop for the state, and it’s exciting to see what new spirits may emerge from it.

According to the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States, tequila and mezcal were the second-fastest growing spirit category in the country in 2022.

This suggests that there is a strong demand for agave-based spirits, and it’s encouraging to see that growers and distillers are responding to this demand.

As Doherty said, “We seem to have this insatiable thirst for agave, so why not have a domestically grown supply?” It’s a sentiment that many in the industry share, and it’s a promising sign for the future of agave-based spirits in the United States.

Alfonso Mojica Navarro, the esteemed director of the Mexican Chamber of the Tequila Industry, eloquently expressed his views on the profound significance of tequila, emphasizing its extensive historical lineage, global renown for its unparalleled quality, and its intimate connection with the rich tapestry of Mexican culture.

While he refrained from explicitly addressing California’s recent venture into the realm of agave spirits, he conveyed his unwavering belief in Mexico’s ability to effectively respond to the escalating demand for this cherished libation.

In a carefully crafted statement, he expressed the industry’s apprehension regarding the increasing number of entities endeavoring to capitalize on tequila’s triumph by producing agave spirits, liqueurs, or other beverages that attempt to emulate the essence, origins, and distinctive characteristics of the Mexican drink, despite their inherent dissimilarity.

Although agave cultivation on a large scale has yet to materialize in California, the rise in popularity of spirits crafted by delicately cooking the plant’s core to extract fermentable sugars has been undeniable.

Henry Tarmy, the illustrious owner of Ventura Spirits, attested to this trend, revealing that since distilling his inaugural batch five years ago, every single one of his meticulously crafted products has been promptly sold out, underscoring the burgeoning demand for these tantalizing elixirs.

In a manner akin to Mexico’s efforts, California is diligently undertaking measures to safeguard its burgeoning industry.

Demonstrating its commitment, the state legislature passed a law in the previous year mandating that “California agave spirits” must exclusively utilize plants cultivated within the state’s borders, while simultaneously prohibiting the inclusion of any additives.

This legislative initiative underscores California’s proactive approach in ensuring the authenticity and quality of its agave spirits, while simultaneously bolstering its position as a key player in the global spirits market.

By enforcing strict regulations on the sourcing and production of these spirits, California seeks to establish itself as a region renowned for its exceptional agave-based products, thereby fostering consumer trust and promoting the growth of its nascent industry.

The California Agave Council, established last year, has experienced significant growth, with a dozen growers and a few distillers coming together initially and now tripling in size.

Craig Reynolds, the founding director who introduced agave cultivation to the Northern California community of Davis, shared that those involved in producing agave spirits possess a profound admiration for Mexican tequila.

Reynolds mentioned that the council currently boasts approximately 45 member growers, all of whom express a desire for an increased number of agave plants.

While agave requires minimal water, it presents various other challenges. The plant typically necessitates a minimum of seven years to reach maturity and is notoriously difficult to harvest, with a mature plant weighing several hundred pounds.

Furthermore, once harvested, the plant must be regrown from scratch.

Despite the recent relief brought by record rain and snowfall, the threat of drought still looms over California.

As the state that supplies the majority of the country’s produce, California is under pressure to find sustainable solutions to reduce water usage.

In this quest, agave has emerged as a promising alternative. A decade ago, California implemented regulations to control the extraction of groundwater, as excessive pumping had caused wells to run dry and land to sink.

However, scientists predict that climate change will lead to more frequent and severe weather patterns, exacerbating the risk of drought.

Given these circumstances, the exploration of alternatives such as agave becomes even more crucial in ensuring the long-term viability of California’s agricultural industry.

Stuart Woolf, an agriculturalist specializing in tomato and almond cultivation in California’s fertile Central Valley, has found himself contemplating the viability of agave as a potential solution to the impending water limitations that threaten his farming operations.

Despite his investments in solar energy and groundwater recharge initiatives to safeguard his family’s multi-generational farm, Woolf anticipates that he will only be able to utilize approximately 60% of his land in the next two decades.

Motivated by this predicament, Woolf decided to conduct a trial experiment with agave cultivation a few years ago, and the results were promising enough for him to proceed with planting around 200,000 agave plants on land that would have otherwise been left fallow.

Remarkably, each acre of agave requires a mere 3 inches (7.6 centimeters) of water annually, which is a fraction of the water demand of traditional row crops and even less than that of pistachio and almond trees.

In recognition of the potential of agave as a low-water crop, Woolf and his wife, Lisa, generously donated $100,000 to the University of California, Davis, establishing a research fund dedicated to exploring the various varieties of this succulent and its potential applications in agriculture.

Woolf expressed his satisfaction with the minimal amount of water required by agave, confidently stating that he does not foresee any water-related challenges in the future.